A chill is in the air, the daylight hours are shorter, and we relish late fall sunshine. But before more snow flies and the gardening catalogs set us to longing for spring, here are a few thoughts about putting the flower gardens to bed for the winter.
A good general guideline, though there are a few caveats, is to cut the perennials way back, and to pull and pitch the annuals. In addition, clean up the spent and fallen blooms, stems and leaves around the plants, to both tidy the garden and help its general health.
Pruning back perennials keeps diseases such as powdery mildew at bay, aids in avoiding winter damage, and can spark healthy growth in the spring. It also saves work later on. So cut back phlox, day lilies, columbine, clematis, astilbe, spirea and painted daisies. Prune back those slug-harboring hostas, peonies after a hard frost, and penstemon whose floppy stems hold too much moisture.
Be careful, though, not to cut into basal foliage — the new leaves at the base of many plants that protect the crown (where the stem meets the ground). Perennials including mountain bluet, speedwell, hollyhock, ladybell, salvia and yarrow have basal growth to watch for. And coral bell leaves all protect the crown, so don’t prune them.
Some perennials, such as coneflowers, asters, bee balm, and rudbeckia (black-eyed susan) sport seed heads or clusters that songbirds may enjoy, or have stalks native bees use, and can be left standing. Cranesbill foliage stays green through winter, and may be pruned in the spring. And some plants — lilacs, azaleas, forsythia, some hydrangeas — should be pruned after blooming in the spring, not in the fall.
As for annuals, let most of them go. But some, such as pansies, alyssum, geraniums, even petunias, will take to digging up, pruning dead material, repotting and placing in a sunny window. You may also keep geraniums, placed in a brown paper bag or hung upside down, in a dry, cool, dark space until spring.
Dahlias, gorgeous in summer sunshine, need to stay inside during the winter. Cut down the foliage, and carefully dig out the clumps of tubers. Brush off loose soil, let dry for a few days, upside down if possible. Then stash the tubers in a box or pot; cover with dry compost or vermiculite, or wrap them in newspaper. Keep them in a cool, dry, dark place that won’t freeze, and replant them in the spring.
Finally, autumn is not only the time to cut back and take out, it is also a season to put in. Daffodil, tulip, hyacinth, and crocus bulbs are among the most popular to plant, before the ground freezes, for early spring flowering.
Dig holes, ideally two to three times deeper than the bulb is tall Add loose soil mixed with compost to the bottom of the holes for drainage. You could also put in a little bone meal, though it may attract rodents. Plant bulbs pointy side up, cover with soil, and top with a couple of inches of straw or shredded leaves. Then wait for the hibernating bulbs to wake up and bloom in the spring.
The Houlton Canopy Crew, which brings you these thoughts, has been working to put town gardens to bed this fall, and through the winter will be planning and dreaming of trees and gardens in our community.
Mary Miller is a member of the Houlton Canopy Crew, which is committed to caring for trees and gardens.
