Domestication resulted from the tendency of humans to favor animals and plants that were a little sweeter, a little softer, a little more productive, or a little less trouble.
As we actively selected for traits we wanted and against those we did not, dogs waved farewell to their wolf brethren, corn vaulted up from its grassy roots, and petunias developed ruffles, double blooms, tri-colored flutes, and a willingness to either climb or trail depending on the orientation of the pot. Cats agreed not to savage us in our sleep as long as we feed them … nobody really domesticated Felis domesticus.
Fast forward to current day. Nearly any species we plant in our fields or house in our barns come in a stunning array of shapes, sizes and colors. Much like in the fashion industry, breeders identify “the next big thing” even before we know that we want it, then put that product on the market for purchase. Also like in the fashion industry, someone has to figure out how to make us reach for our wallets. So the breeders need to know what we want.
What does a grower of 300 acres of tomatoes want? A desired variety generates rapidly growing seedlings with acceptable resistance to the multiple harbingers of death that threaten the crop. The crop is completely uniform in size, shape, and color. The tomatoes ripen all at once over the entire 300 acres. They are tough enough to withstand mechanical harvesting, packaging, and shipping across the country without turning to mush.
So what does the commercial market consumer get? The “Big-Ag” tomato is a rock hard, red but not ripe, flavorless lump that will, at best, provide some color contrast to the sea of lettuce on which it rests. Though disappointing, this result is not personal! The farmer is paid by weight, volume, or truckload; s/he is never offered a paycheck or a bonus for flavor, so that consideration is not included on the list of traits that the plant breeders pursue for large commercial growers.
Contrast this experience to that of a customer at the Presque Isle Farmers Market. Vendors select tomato varieties almost entirely based on what the consumer wants. Organic practices, or at least careful evaluation of do-no-harm “standard” agricultural practices, are the norm. Quick eyes and nimble fingers evaluate each tomato and pick it when it is “just-right ripe.” Each fruit is placed in a container that protects it from damage and vendors pack their produce carefully in a van, truck or wagon to bring it to the PIFM in the Aroostook Centre Mall parking lot on Saturday morning.
Thus, you, our customer, select freshly picked, juicy, fully ripe tomatoes in a variety of shapes and colors. The texture is just what you would hope for; the varieties available tantalize your taste buds from first bite to last. At a local market, you really do pay for flavor. We hope you will stop by soon to taste the difference for yourself.
The Presque Isle Farmer’s market’s chair/president for the remainder of the season is Deena Albert-Parks of Chops Ahoy farm in Woodland. For information about participating or visiting the market, contact her at deena.albertparks73@gmail.com.
