Trees and gardens

1 year ago

They were a sign of hope in spring, a source of shade in summer, a riot of color in autumn. Now they’re on the ground, challenging you to take care of them. Leaves.

You could, of course, rake or blow them into piles. And after the children have jumped in them, bag the leaves, then take them to the transfer station and unbag them into the wood pile. (In Houlton, there is a $28, 200-pound minimum.) It could be a lot of work, and a bit of expense. This is the only option for maple leaves with fungal spots — they should not be burned or otherwise used.

Alternatively, you could burn the leaves, with a $10 Houlton town permit from the police station, and the state permit that goes along with it. If you choose that route, please stay away from the street, and avoid too much smoke from burning wet leaves.

Or, you could let the leaves be, raked or not, depending on your space. A University of Maine Cooperative Extension bulletin says, “Leave the leaves.” Let the bumblebees, butterflies and moths in all stages, and numerous other arthropods find winter cover in whole leaf litter. Give the birds, turtles and amphibians a food source. Offer pollinators protection, and the plants they pollinate a boost, all from your leaves.

Moreover, those leaves could be free organic mulch for your gardens — layers of leaves offer first winter insulation and then weed suppression and moisture retention. Leaves can be set around trees, shrubs and most perennials with no detrimental effect. A thin layer on your lawn provides nutrients and root protection. And of course, there is always the compost pile which welcomes gradual additions of leaves.

The environmentally friendly options for dealing with fall leaves are numerous and relatively less effort than bagging or burning. But whatever you choose, get help if you need it and enjoy the bounty your trees have offered. 

Meanwhile, there are flower gardens to care for as summer wanes. So here is a bit of fall information about one of our oldest perennials: the iris, named for the Greek goddess of the rainbow. The tall purple and yellow blooms of the bearded iris will be back in the spring, and will benefit from a bit of care now. 

After letting the leaves stand through the summer, gathering energy, cut them, on a slant, back to about three inches in early to mid-fall. This will help prevent fungal and bacterial diseases that may be caused by too much moisture on the leaves. It may also guard against iris borers, a brown moth whose eggs overwinter in the foliage, then hatch into leaf-eating, tunneling larvae.

If iris bloom production has slowed (usually after 3-5 years) you may also want to dig up and divide iris rhizomes. Remove them in whole clumps from the soil carefully, then gently separate the rhizomes with your hands or a fork. Discard, but not in the compost, any large (bigger than your thumb) old rhizomes with no leaf spans, any soft and smelly ones, and any on which you see white larvae of the aforementioned iris borer.

Replant, as you have room, the healthy rhizomes with leaf fans. Dig wide holes, 4 inches deep, and put a small mound of soil in the center. Set the rhizome on the mound, spread the roots, fill the hole, and keep the rhizomes visible above the ground. Tamp down soil to anchor. Or, give your irises away to friends to spread the beauty.

Currently the Houlton Canopy Committee is working to revitalize the area in front of the Chamber of Commerce. Come check it out.

These tips and ideas are brought to you by the Houlton Canopy Crew, committed to caring for trees and gardens.