Special to Pioneer Times
With each passing day as another local lake frees up of ice and area rivers and streams clear and recede, spring trolling should be top rate for the rest of the month. My fishing gear has been checked over and set to go for a couple of weeks, and the last day or two I’ve been looking over my boat, motor and trailer for any problems. Trailers are in and out of fresh and salt water dozens of times a year for fishing and hunting outings, and these regular baths are hard on lights and wiring. Blown bulbs are easy to replace, as are the plastic housings for running lights, brakes, back-up and direction signals which frequently crack and shatter. Since the wiring runs inside of the frame from the plug-in on the trailer tongue all the way down each side to the rear lights, checking and repairing breaks and connection problems is time consuming and often frustrating.
Fortunately most local auto parts stores, Wal-Mart and K-Mart carry a wide variety of trailer bulbs, light housings and full wiring kits. Prices are reasonable and far cheaper than a traffic ticket for faulty lights. While you’re at the store pick up a spray can of WD40, silicone, or dry graphite lubricant. Check the ball hitch for proper fit and then give the latch a quick spray of lubricant to keep it moving freely, and while you’re at it, spritz the trailer jack shaft and the rotary handle. Make sure you have a clevis pin to lock the latch handle in place once the trailer hitch is on the truck ball.
Use an air gauge to check the tire pressure, don’t just eyeball them — that mistake cost me a new tire just this past week. Don’t forget to check the spare as well, under inflated spare tires are useless on remote back woods roads when a main tire goes flat. Bearings need to be checked every year on trailers used in salt water and every two or three years for fresh water rigs. Any gray- or cream-colored grease indicates a leak allowing water into the sealed bearing rings and complete repacking, possibly all new bearings.
On that first outing of the year, once you have launched the boat or canoe and parked the truck and trailer, look over the rollers or bunks that support the boat during travel. If bunk padding or plastic on the rollers is worn this may scrape paint or even wear a hole in the boat over time and rough roads. Replace these parts as soon as possible. Tighten bolts to prevent any bunk or roller motion and lubricate the center shafts on each roller to ease loading and reduce noise and wear.
Boat drain plugs are essential, make sure your old one isn’t loose once it’s in the drain hole and replace it if there’s any doubt. Always carry an extra plug stored in the boat and use 12 to 18 inches of strong monofilament to tie the main plug to the boat so it can’t be lost during travel. Check screws, locking bolts and clamps holding boat seats in place to assure security, having a pedestal seat come loose during fast travel on rough water can lead to dire consequences.
Look over the anchor and attached rope to insure no frayed spots or poorly tied knots that could set you adrift if something breaks. A full complement of floatation vests, the type that keep even an unconscious victim’s head clear of the water, is crucial. At least one floating throw cushion and a length of sturdy rope make good sense, as well. Make sure passengers wear their vests, they are clothing not just decorations or seat cushions.
Larger watercraft will have running lights, a bilge pump, and often a live well and aerator that need to be in working order, and any craft with a gas engine should have a fire extinguisher. Signal devices such as an air horn and flares are the law on certain size boats and since motors are known to fail, how about a couple of paddles or a long, sturdy push pole.
As for outboard motors, my mechanical abilities are limited, and beyond replacing spark plugs and adjusting fuel richness I leave the tune-up work to professionals. I suggest carrying a couple of new spark plugs as well as a plug wrench. A small tool kit including a wire cutter, stripper and crimper should also be on board. Manual start motors should have pull cords checked for fraying and an extra length of rope makes sense, even for electric start engines which can be pulled if the battery dies. By the way, be sure to check your battery charge prior to each outing.
Don’t use old gas in auxiliary portable tanks, buy fresh and mix oil exactly for best results. If your motor propeller is secured with a shear pin, carry an extra pin. When going out for a prolonged trip or far off shore, an extra propeller may be a good idea.
Last but not least, don’t forget to register your boat and trailer at the town office. This oversight has ruined many a weekend outing, when city hall is closed.
Some of the best fishing of the season will be enjoyed by spring trollers over the next few weeks, a pre-trip check list on boat, motor and trailer will assure you actually get fishing. An hour or so now will prevent canceling or shortening an outing later.
